Binondo Pre-Chinese New Year Food Wok Tour, January 25, 2014

Organized by Pia Lim-Castillo with Old Manila Walks’ co-owner and CHOP member Ivan Man Dy. The large group of 36 (18 of whom were CHOP members) nibbled its way through Binondo, tasting dishes that have made their way to the Philippines through the Chinese migrants (Tsinoys), and learned about the transformation that these dishes have undergone through the years. Ivan, who tailored the tour specifically to CHOP’s purposes, personally guided the group through several food establishments where the group had a taste of the restaurants’ specialties. The tour was a resounding success; a good number of the non-CHOP members who were in the tour subsequently joined CHOP. 

WALKING LAURIAT IN BINONDO IN THE YEAR OF THE WOOD HORSE

[Loosely translated by Regina Newport from Ige Ramos’ Bandehado Column in Bandera,

Philippine Daily Inquirer, January 20, 2014.]

Sin Nee Kuai Lok! Kiong Hee Huat Tsai! This was the welcome greeting to us by Ivan Man Dy, the excellent tour guide of Old Manila Walks, at the start of the Binondo Food Walking Tour sponsored by the Culinary Historians of the Philippines (CHOP), a group dedicated to the promotion of learning about traditional Filipino food, headed by Regina Tolentino Newport and Pia Lim-Castillo.

CHOP members and their friends gathered in the heart of Chinatown, the Basilica de San Lorenzo Ruiz, in front of Plaza Calderon de la Barca in Binondo, Manila.

Ivan explained the importance of Manila’s Chinatown, which was established in 1596 and is known as one of the oldest Chinatowns in the world. According to him, 90% of the migrant Tsinoys (Chinese Pinoys) in Chinatown originated from the Fujian province in South China. He said that since the beginning of the colonization of the islands by the Spanish Empire up to today, Tsinoys have played a very important role in the advancement of commerce and industry in Manila. The group traced the path taken by these migrant Tsinoys and their influences on local cuisine.

First stop – Quick Snack on Carvajal Alley (used to be known as Ho Sua Hang, which means “umbrella” as this was where an umbrella repair shop existed in the 1900s. Quick Snack was set up in 1964 by Ama Pilar when she was 60—Ama Pilar was originally from Fujian, but resettled to Chinatown after many years of living in Indonesia. The group tasted Tauhu Goreng (fried tofu with sweet soy sauce, sliced cucumber, ground peanuts and coriander, with hot chili sauce). Ang Ku Chay Ah is a type of empanada made from kuchay and filled with a savory meat filling. There was also pancit, and their version, called See Mee Goreng, is obviously with Indonesian influence, and which has kangkong, chili and a hint of curry.

Second stop - Awi’s Café & Restaurant on E.T.Yuchengco (formerly Calle Nueva). The group tasted the “original” lumpia, the recipe for which came from Fujian. This is called the “mother” of all lumpias because the claim goes that this was the original basis of the many varieties of lumpia in the country. It’s known all over Southeast Asia as “popiah,” and it’s filled with local shallots, snowpeas, carrot, cabbage, ground pork, shrimp, fish cake, roasted seaweed, rice noodles, lettuce, ground peanuts, sugar, scrambled eggs, wansoy (cilantro) and hoisin sauce, and wrapped in a crepe wrapper made from rice flour. Ivan demonstrated how to wrap the lumpia, drizzling the finished lumpia with hoisin sauce and hot sauce. Making this dish is labor-intensive, which is why it’s normally served only on special occasions. It’s only available at Awi’s on Mondays.

Third stop – Dong Bei Dumplings on E.T. Yuchengco - These days, the Tsinoys from Fujian have been joined by migrants from Northeast China, who have brought their own Chinese cooking to the Philippines. Among these is the owner of  Dong Bei Dumplings, where we tasted Jiaozi, a dumpling filled with meat and vegetables including kuchay. Compared to Cantonese siomai or wanton, Jiaozi has a thicker wrapper shaped into half-moons, and is eaten with a vinegar/soy sauce with chili dip. Both are traditionally served on Chinese New Year. We were served several variations of the Jiaozi, in three colors—white, red, and green—which depended on the fillings. The other dish is Chicken Sinjian, a Tsinoy Muslim dish—chicken tossed in cucumber, carrots, sesame seeds, and cumin (this last ingredient is not normally found in the taste profile of Chinese cuisine).

The proliferation of Panciterias – Ivan explained that even though the Hokkien Chinese make up a big number of migrant Tsinoys in Binondo, their cuisine has not become as popular as the Tsinoys from other parts of China because they concentrated more on business and commerce. It’s the Cantonese (or those from Guandong) who are the most popular all over the globe. Their contributions to Philippine cuisine are mami (a type of noddle soup), siopao, and siomai.

Fourth stop – Xiao Chun Restaurant – the group tasted the Kau Tsai Peng (or Mustard Rice), steamed rice cooked with mustard leaves, fried peanuts and minced scallions, considered by many Tsinoys as comfort food. This was paired with two dishes—bamboo shells (razor clams) in a special sauce, and a delicious oyster omelet.

Fifth and last stop – Sa Lido Restaurant on Ongpin St., which is a haunt for older Tsinoy men, and where there is a lot of gossip and discussions about politics, commerce, and community. We were served their most popular dishes—the Cha Sio Ma (oven-roasted pork asado) with sweet sauce, and Pancit Cha Mee (thick miki noodles) in a special sauce. The dessert was Heladong Lichiyas with Gulaman Almendras (Iced Lychees with Almond Jelly).

Ivan engaged some tour participants in a parlor game, in which the contestants had to memorize several Chinese greetings in the Hokkien dialect like Sin Nee Kuai Lok (Happy New Year), Kiong Hee Huat Sai (Congratulations and may your wealth prosper), and Ban Si Du Yi (may your wishes be granted one thousand times!).

Ivan gifted each participant with special tikoy from Holland Bake Shop, and red envelopes containing Pao, coin-shaped chocolate wrapped in gold foil, a traditional Chinese good luck gift which symbolizes prosperity in the coming new year.

The tour was a resounding success and all the participants agreed that Ivan had organized an excellent and fun- and food-filled journey through Binondo's Chinatown. Thank you, Ivan!

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The Food We Ate